Staining and Varnishing Red Oak Kitchen Cabinets

AMERICAN PAINTING AND PRESSURE CLEANING, INC.
"Where Quality Is Not An Option"

David's Cookies (Fairfield Gourmet Foods Corporation)

STAINING AND VARNISHING RED OAK KITCHEN CABINETS

Believe it or not, there are some folk out there who do not appreciate the beauty and the richness of red oak wood and there are some people out there who really don't appreciate oak wood at all. But I'm not one of them and over the years I have come to love and revere oak wood in general and particularly red oak wood. In this article I am going to give you a step by step guide to help you stain and varnish your red oak cabinets. I will be focusing on new cabinets but the same procedures are in order for existing red oak cabinets with the exception being that all existing coatings on your cabinets must be completely removed before you can restain them. Once again, I cannot stress this point enough; all previous coatings--stains, urethane, paints and primers must be totally removed from your cabinets before you can begin your restaining and revarnishing system.

When it comes to cabinetry I simply love to stain and varnish them each and every opportunity I get. I really enjoy taking my time and savoring every moment of it. From preparation to staining and varnishing to completion, I truly enjoy this special task and I guess it is because of my love for wood. Whether it's cheery, cypress, mahogany, birch, pine, red oak, white oak, walnut, pecan, or any other species; I love wood! In my opinion wood is in a class of its own and nothing else even comes remotely close. But sometimes wood needs a little something extra to bring out its beauty and charm--its grace and stateliness. And that is why we stain and varnish it to help bring out its natural elegance and splendor.

If you're looking to give your kitchen a new and interesting look, then by all means you should consider giving your kitchen cabinets a complete makeover. Some makeovers do little to transform your kitchen into an exciting and lovable place to gather for food and fun, but giving your kitchen cabinets a completely new look will definitely make a statement. And beautiful red oak cabinets neatly stained and carefully varnished will not only make a beautiful impression but they will also extend a warm and gracious invitation to all your family and friends. So join me as we get ready to travel one of my favorite roads.

PREPARATION: GIVING IT ALL YOU GOT

When it comes to most home improvement projects preparation is usually the key to a successful ending and when it comes to staining and varnishing your red oak cabinets this is the most important aspect of the project. First of all you should remove all fingerprints, grease, oil stains and every thing else from your cabinets; I prefer using alcohol, denatured alcohol if available, and thoroughly wiping the cabinets down. Be sure and wipe every square inch real good; making sure you remove any thing that could prevent the stain from penetrating into the wood. Do not use mineral spirits to clean your cabinets because it will only clog the pores of the wood and prevent the stain from penetrating into the wood. I sometimes use lacquer thinner to clean cabinets before I stain, as opposed to denatured alcohol, but lacquer has a very, very pungent odor and it can be extremely dangerous, so I don't recommend its use for the young novice, instead stick with denatured alcohol and by all means use it with caution as well.

Once the cabinets have been thoroughly cleaned and all dirt, grease, grime, oil and other unwanted surfactants have been completely removed, you are now ready to proceed to the next step. When staining and varnishing your cabinets it is best to remove your cabinet doors and lay them out on a work bench or work table and address them separately, at least that's how I like to do it. Sometimes that is not an option, and I just have to work with them still attached to the boxes or cabinets. But I really prefer to work on them in a different area because it makes it so much easier to reach difficult places that are in the back of the cabinets and hard to reach areas that are directly behind the doors and so on. Take my word for it and you will see just how more convenient it is to work with the doors off.

Now that the doors are off and the cabinets/doors are cleaned and ready to go begin by applying a quality wood conditioner on the cabinets/doors liberally and then brushing it vigorously into the wood. The reason for this step is to help avoid blotches when you begin staining; wood absorbs stain differently and you can easily end up with a lot of blotches if you aren't careful and the best way to avoid such a disaster is to apply a good wood conditioner before you stain. Apply the wood conditioner and allow it time to dry (follow manufacturers' instructions) and then proceed to apply the stain.

STAINING APPLICATION

Whatever stain you decide to use remember that red oak is extremely versatile when it comes to receiving stains. Whether you decide to go with the traditional golden oak stain or you decide to be more daring and use a red mahogany or a dark walnut; you might want to use a cherry stain like I did for one of my clients--and they really loved it. But whatever choice you make just be sure that it is a quality product made by a highly reputable manufacturer not some cheap product that comes with a ridiculously low price. It will be well worth your while to invest in a quality white china bristle brush for staining and varnishing and a real good quality stain and varnish as well. And even the rag cloths you will be using for wiping stain and removing excess stain should be a good quality cotton rag that does not have any lint.

When it comes to stain application there are several ways and approaches you can take :

(a) Wiping--wiping stain on using a cotton lint free rag is an option that many people use. Wiping the stain into the wood with even and methodical wipes can yield very good results, however, I prefer applying the stain with a white china bristle brush and after waiting fifteen to thirty minutes I then proceed to wipe off the excess with a fine cotton rag that's lint free. For example, I often use my T shirts for this purpose. I will get an old T shirt and turn it over and cut out the back side of the shirt; usually it is clean and unsoiled. You can also purchase a box of cotton rags that are clean and lint free.

As I stated I like to brush in the stain, let it sit from fifteen to thirty minutes and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton lint free rag.

(b) Brushing--brushing on the stain is a choice that is held by many. In fact, although I prefer using a white china bristle brush, some people prefer using a black natural bristle brush and there are some who prefer synthetic bristle brush to apply stain. My point is this,whatever feels comfortable to you---use it. There are no set rules that you must abide by and no one is an absolute authority on how to apply stain; so find what's comfortable for you and work from there. After all, it's really all about you and what's good for you. I have been staining and varnishing doors, cabinets, walls and all of that for almost a quarter of a century, but what feels right to me may not feel right for you, so take the time and find out what you like to use and by all means enjoy.

(c) Spraying--using a spray system to stain your kitchen cabinets is an option too and there are several systems out there that are available for use, but be warned because spraying comes with a number of big risks. If you are a novice and unfamiliar with spraying systems I recommend that you be very careful treading these waters because disaster is only a step away! I think spraying should be left to the experienced and the professionals who are very familiar with the equipment and know how to avoid disaster.

BRUSHING ON THE STAIN

As I mention above I prefer brushing on the stain thoroughly and allowing it to penetrate into the wood, after which, I allow it to remain on the wood undisturbed for about fifteen to thirty minutes at the longest. The longer you allow the stain to just sit on the wood the darker it will look and the harder it will be to remove the excess too. So be careful not to allow the stain to just sit there on the wood to long before wiping it off--okay? Work in small sections to avoid leaving the stain on the wood to long before wiping it off. Now the idea is not to wipe the stain off completely, but to remove the excess stain that is just sitting on the wood, especially horizontal surfaces where stain can quickly accumulate and form a little puddle. Be sure to avoid this scenario by not overly applying the stain and by not wiping up the excess when it happens. The key is to be watchful and observant and always at the ready to remedy any problem(s). Unless you are a master craftsman with almost a half a century of experience under your belt you are going to make mistakes, but if you are observant you can rectify practically all the mistakes you make and still have a beautiful job that's well done and satisfying if you stay alert and avoid mental lapses.

VARNISHING

With your cabinets/doors evenly and uniformly stained now is the time to begin varnishing. It doesn't matter what stain you chose to use on your cabinets, varnish will simply bring them to life like you wouldn't believe. Yes I love varnish because of the richness and impressive look it gives to wood...all wood. Man, it really does bring to life those cabinets and give them an elegant look that's unique and down right beautiful. Personally, I like to use a clear satin finished polyurethane that's quick drying. I have been using this product by min-wax for many years and I still haven't had a complaint yet. There are many other products available that are made by many different manufacturers that comes highly recommended. So be open and look around at all your choices and be sure to do your home work.

When it comes to varnishing I simply use the same technique as I do when I'm staining. I brush methodically and uniformly all the while distributing a generous amount of varnish all over the wood. I do my best not to apply to much varnish, but when I do I just clean my brush of the excess varnish simply by tapping the brush against the inside of the can. Sometimes I'll transfer the extra varnish to a spot that does not have enough varnish or I'll put it back into the bucket---whatever. You see this is certainly not rocket science, but it does take a concerted effort on your part to do a great job and a great job you will do if you put your heart into it.

So in closing I just want to encourage you to put your best foot forward and do a good job that you can be proud of in every sense. And remember to follow all safety rules and precautions. Always wear the appropriate protective gear to avoid injuries or worst. Bon Voyage.

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Disclaimer: The author of this article assumes no responsibility for any and all injuries that might occur from implementing any of the procedures mention in this article or any other article written by him. Please call a certified and establish contractor in your area.