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How To Repair Your Plaster Walls and Ceilings



 In my opinion, when it comes to home decoration there isn't anything more beautiful than plaster walls and ceilings handsomely finished and tastefully painted.

For centuries plaster has been the choice for interior walls and ceilings. Over the millenniums some of most well known homes, buildings and even castles have been adorned with plaster.

However, after World War II many architects and builders switched from using plaster for their interior walls and ceilings and began using drywall panels, and today over 95% of all residential and commercial  structures that are built use drywall, or as it  is more commonly known  "sheetrock", which is actually a trade name for USG gypsum, a company that manufactures drywall panels and many related products.

But there are still a few good souls who prefer plaster over drywall...any day. Although the cost of having plaster installed is quite expensive in comparison to drywall, yet the richness and graciousness of plastered walls masterfully finished has no parallel. The beauty of it all is just breathtaking to say the least.

 It is a well known fact that plaster is rigid and inelastic, thereby creating problems that can show up in the form of cracks, mapping lines, crevices and even large holes.

But for many homeowners who have plastered walls and ceilings this is no reason to push the panic button. Plaster repairs are within the skill level of most homeowners, both men and women alike. In most cases superficial problems like stress lines, small holes and even cracks can be successfully repaired by a novice. But more serious problems should be left to a qualified plastering contractor that has the experience and expertise to rectify your problems.

This article was written to provide the young novice with the information needed to fix and repair cosmetic problems with their plaster walls and ceilings; all the while beautifying and enhancing their home, and not to mention  potentially saving a great deal of money too.



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Whether it's your walls or ceilings that's in need of repair, the first step in repairing your substrate is to clean away all loose and chipped plaster. Thoroughly remove it by using a can opener or a 5 in 1 tool that has multiple functions. If you are only addressing stress lines that's running diagonally ( horizontal lines are usually an indication of more serious problems that points to your lath) then there is no need to use any tool to clean away debris. Instead, simply use a bag of drywall setting compound and drywall tape to cover stress lines and small holes.

Drywall setting compounds have chemicals mixed in it to help it dry much faster than regular drywall joint compound that usually comes pre mixed in a box or bucket. You can buy these setting type compounds in powder form from most home improvement centers.

The setting times range from 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 90 minutes. I have heard of setting compounds that you can purchase that dries as quickly as 5 minutes or last as long as 6 hours, but I have never use them. A word of caution when it comes to these setting compounds: they can take some getting use to so be careful and only mix a small amount initially to avoid having it harden in your tray or whatever you're using as a container to hold your compound.

TAPING

In order to keep the lines and cracks from returning again you must use drywall tape to cover them before you apply the setting compound. After thoroughly mixing the setting compound with water and getting a workable consistency that's not to loose, yet not so firm you can't spread it; apply the compound smoothly and evenly over the cracks/lines and make sure you apply it liberally.

 Next, place the tape carefully in the compound that covers the cracks or lines. Use a 4" or 6" drywall taping knife to press the tape into the compound. There should be compound oozing from both sides of the tape. This is good. Now carefully remove the excess compound by wiping it away with your drywall knife.

FLOATING (finishing)

Make sure the tape is embedded in the mud well because this is so important. Once this is done allow time for drying. When the setting compound has dried sand the edges lightly. Apply a second coat of setting compound, only this time use a 8" or 10" drywall floating knife. Try and float it as smooth as you possibly can, but don't worry, you can always sand it after it dries.

And finally, apply a final coat of setting compound with a 12" or 14" drywall taping knife, this last coat should be mixed to a thinner consistency than the previous ones. You really want to make this last float as smooth as humanly possible.

For the final application you can use regular joint compound to help you acquire a very smooth appearance. It's really your choice, but you want to create the illusion that the ceilings and walls are as perfect as the day they were first plastered and you can do it.

Taping and floating plaster joints, cracks and lines take some practice to be quite frank with you. But you can accomplish this task with some effort on your part and some instructions on my part. You really can do it and in the process save yourself a great deal of money, not to mention the satisfaction that comes from achieving success.

Remember, when it comes to plastering repair-- patience really is a virtue and always work safely and follow manufacturers' directions and instructions, and if in doubt call a local reputable plastering contractor for assistance.


If you have found this article helpful, please consider making a small donation to the author. Thank you kindly.



Disclaimer: The author of this article accepts no responsibility for any injuries that might result from the content of this article or any other article written by him. Please consult a reputable contractor in your area. Thank you.






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